Driving to Gulfport is basically a straight shot east on I-10. About 15 minutes into our return trip, a billowing orange cloud appeared on the horizon. At first, it seemed as though the cloud might have been colored by the lowering sun, but as we grew closer, we realized it was too low to the ground and the thick black smoke being emitted from the base.
I started to panic slightly. I could feel my heart pounding as we neared the thick smoke, saw the break lights of the cars ahead of us, and could smell the acrid cloud as it flowed through the car vents. I could see cars disappearing into the cloud and contemplated stopping in the middle of the highway. No emergency vehicles were on the scene, and no sirens or horns were heard.

So we drifted slowly into the unknown, into a thick cloud of hot smoke, where we could see a huge column of fire on the side of the road. Luckily came out on the other side with its scent still heavy in the car, but we had no idea what had happened.
As the fire and its ominous cloud grew smaller in the rearview mirror and we continued the drive home, everything seemed much clearer. Literally. I felt more aware and cognizant of my surroundings. The fear and confusion of the fiery cloud brought the remainder of my I-10 drive into sharp focus, and for the first time, I saw Katrina. Not just her ghost, but Katrina, in all her terrible destruction.
Alongside I-10, houses are still abandoned, mere shells of their former existence. Tattered blue tarps drape across the roofs of many buildings that remain empty, creating a collage, a blue-

quilted reminder of a once-in-a-lifetime storm. For Sale signs sit on the edge of properties where only battered foundations remain, or in some cases, a staircase leading to nothing; a stairway to a hole where life used to be. For the first time since I have been here, I felt as though I had come out of a dream-like state, awake and fully aware of Katrina, and the reality that though it's been 4 years on August 29, she is still all around us.
It pains me to write this. It hurts to read stories and look at images and really start to feel the sense of loss present in this community. Our assistant vice president spoke to Amy and I very recently about this loss, and how its pangs still- and will always- haunt him and his family. His family has lived in New Orleans for nearly 30 years. He raised his children here, created a life here, and during Katrina, he lost it all. When he returned from evacuation, his home, his church, and indeed the community he and his family had been so intimately a part of, was entirely and irrevocably destroyed. There are people he hasn't spoken to since August 28, 2005- he has no idea if these lost friends and neighbors even survived the storm. I am not doing his poignant words justice here, but this phrase stuck with me, and always will: "Imagine your house burns down. The smoke clears, and all might be gone, but your neighbors are still there, your life is still there. You can rebuild. Now, imagine the whole neighborhood burns down at the same time. What do you do then?"
Katrina burned the neighborhood down, the whole region, an entire piece of the fabric of our country burned to the ground and much of it has not been rebuilt. Some of it is still burning, its smoldering aftermath still palpable and deeply painful. It may continue to burn in the hearts of New Orleanians and others from this region for the rest of their lives. And after the burning's done, there will be much that is lost forever, too much that will never return.
I am only now beginning to see past the smoke, beyond the shiny mirrors of what the outsider might see, and through the distortion of media images fed for months to the world about Katrina. I am no expert, but I am gaining a sense of place amidst all the loss, grief, fear, confusion, hope, and pride that has enveloped this region since 8.29.05. I expect that the visceral experience I have had here will hurt long after I leave, and in a way, I feel I'm better for it. I am glad that I am able to share this pain with the Gulf region. I can't rebuild it all, nor can I put out the remaining fires, nor can I fill the void the storm left behind. But I can tell its story.
If you are reading this, please consider coming here and experiencing New Orleans for yourself. Forget about what you have seen on TV or read in the newspaper. It's not all about Bourbon Street, or Mardi Gras or Ray Nagin. It is about bearing witness to the people, the art, the music, the spirit, the despair and the hope embodied by an American community that is starting over, rebuilding, rewriting. And as Louis Armstrong said, I know I want to be in that number. I hope you do too.

