Day 15: The Day of 15 Rainbows and 40,000 penguins

I cannot be sad about leaving South Africa tomorrow because today was perfect. Everything about the day could have been part of a novel about serendipitous international travel. We spent the morning shopping in the famous Green Market Square, constantly looking skyward with furrowed brows at the rain clouds drifting overhead. There was a 60 percent chance of rain in Cape Town... and we experienced nary a sprinkle (yes, I just used the word nary in context). We reunited with our whole group at the base of Table Mountain, and took off down the winding roads behind it along the Atlantic Ocean with the sun on our faces. 

We drove along the coast through rolling hills of wine country, all the way to the tip of the world as I know it; Table Mountain National Park-Cape of Good Hope. There, we stood at the meeting point of the Indian and the Atlantic, with towering ocean waves breaking on the rocks of the southwestern-most point of the African continent. Dani, Jess, and I ate lunch on a patio overlooking Cape Point, then sat along the edge of a stone wall looking out onto the coastal mountains and the deep blue water of the ocean. It was absolutely tranquil- I felt a sense of peace that I haven't experienced in years. 

Following our ends of the Earth experience, we drove back the way we came and stopped in Simon's Town, home of the largest African penguin colony on the continent. As the sun began to dip in the sky, we made our way along a boardwalk with penguins waddling alongside us on the other side of the fence. The brush opened up onto the beautiful white sands of Boulder Beach, where hundreds of penguins were huddled over nests in the sand of chirping, fluffy penguin chicks. We watched the penguins glide in on the waves, climb out of the water onto the beach, and shake out their feathers before waddling up to their nests. Adult penguins fed their babies, the colony honked and squawked in trumpeting harmony, and all was right with the world. 

All along we have said this trip has been charmed... We have had uncanny luck with excursions, opportunities, animal sightings and the weather especially. Today of course was no exception, and over the course of a five hour period we saw 5 double rainbows and 5 additional single rainbows. We joked that each person on the trip got their own personal rainbow from the travel gods today!

We ate our last meal in Cape Town at a delicious Thai restaurant, capped off with a chocolate eclair at a posh chocolatier, and here I am, packing and preparing to board the plane home tomorrow. Thanks for reading and commenting on my adventures... See you in the USA!

Day 14: Shopper's Heaven... and Hell

I have been traveling for two weeks as of today! It is crazy how time flies. I know that I have been talking about a lot of heavy issues in recent posts, and though you can expect that this too will feature some of the same issues (as they are inescapable in South Africa) I thought I would spend some time talking about how I've spent my money on this trip.

First, you must know that I am not a big shopper, or at least a big spender, especially since I started graduate school. In fact, over the course of this year, I really haven't purchased much for myself. I have bought an occasional item of clothing, and spent money on dinners or movies, but I rarely really shop in grad school. All of my repressed shopping desires have revealed themselves in South Africa. I love to look at housewares, and even more, I love buying gifts for people, so spending time in the markets of the towns we have visited has resulted in purchasing to the extreme for me. I literally will be coming home with a bag full of souvenir items... It has been like seeing myself from outside myself, like someone else is running her fingers over table linens, wooden figures, and delicate beaded jewelry then spending rand (South Africa's currency) in seemingly large amounts. 

I began to worry about this today, as I realized I had not kept very good track of my spending. However, after doing the math, I realized that I have only spent about $500, and that includes purchasing two meals and snacks every day for two weeks, some excursion costs, and every gift item I have purchased. Before leaving we were encouraged to bring $300 with us for food, which I have surely spent and eaten wonderful things while here, but all of my gift-buying really has resulted in minimal expenditure given the unique and special attributes of what I will bring home. I tried to only purchase items that had a story or helped a person or group in need, so I am hoping that my shopping sprees weren't entirely selfish or frivolous!

We went to wine country today, which was spectacular. Winter is just beginning in South Africa, so it was like being transported back in time to autumn. Driving through the mountains, the tops of which were enveloped in grey and white clouds and misty rain, and along curvy country roads bordered by enormous expanses of yellow and orange-leaved vineyards, everything about today seemed to be tinged with magic. The leaves were falling, the temperatures hovered around 50 degrees, and all around the countryside, vineyard workers were burning piles of dried leaves. Though the sun didn't show itself today, I loved opening the car windows and smelling the fresh mountain air, feeling the mist on my skin, and generally delighting in the fact that I can say I experienced two fall seasons this year. Also, we sampled 5 wines at a sprawling Dutch colonial vineyard called Boschental, located just outside of Stellanbosch- a world-renowned wine region- for less than two dollars. I then purchased a chardonnay for less than 10. I did a bit more shopping this afternoon, then settled in to a comfy leather armchair on the patio of a Cuban, Che Guevara themed restaurant and sipped cappuchino under a toasty heat lamp while reading a book and listening to the rain tap the awning. It was just the relaxation and downtime I was hoping for, and helped me to feel refreshed. Plus, for the most part, South Africa doesn't "do" filtered coffee, so I have been drinking instant sludge mixed with water to get my fix. My two cappuchinos today really hit the spot.

You may now be wondering about the title of this post, and as the contrasts of South Africa have been central to my experience here, I must admit that shopping and enjoying the wares of the country's markets and shops has also been difficult for me. Though the poverty of the nation is sometimes camouflaged by fancy malls and upscale restaurants, one would be hard-pressed to navigate the streets and shops of Cape Town or Port Elizabeth unscathed by beggars and hustlers. I have never been skilled at the whole "just look straight ahead and keep walking" mentality, nor does my gut easily settle when I try to resolve my purchases of fun, but unnecessary items in the face of such extreme poverty. I still haven't figured this out yet, and it isn't a part of me that has just emerged in South Africa, but I know that I need to find a way to contribute to the resolution of poverty in some way because being among the poorest both here and at home causes a deep, visceral reaction in me that never dissolves.  

I cannot believe that tomorrow is our last full day and night in South Africa. (side note: I am going to meet up with my freshman roommate from college tomorrow: she lives in Cape Town, we haven't seen each other in 5 years, and we will reunite in South Africa, that is how small the world is!) I have had so many incredible experiences here it has been exceedingly difficult to pick and choose what to share here and what to leave out. Suffice it to say that when I leave I will certainly become an advocate for travel to SA, and will whole-heartedly encourage other students in my program to partake in this experience, for I feel it has truly had an impact on the way I view my work, myself, and my world.